The expert landscape maintenance companies realize that your landscaping is a long-lasting investment. The professionals suggest prior to hiring a professional to work in your yard that you should ask for referrals from current and past clients. It is a good idea if possible to look at a customer's yard and even talk to the owners. Be wary of individuals who go door to door and offer bargains for performing work. Improper landscape care will cost you extra time and money to correct or replace. Are you willing to take that risk with your investment? Before hiring a landscape contractor, check for membership in ALCA, the only professional organization for landscape contractors in Arizona. Membership demonstrates a willingness to stay up to date on the latest techniques, newest trends and designs and ever changing industry rules and regulations. Do you know the best practices needed to maintain a beautiful lawn or the best water tolerant plants for Arizona?

Do your homework:

• When you contract with an ALCA member you are contracting with a landscape expert. ALCA provides specialized training for its members so they utilize proper installation methods and best maintenance practices for their customers. A beautifully landscaped project is a visible investment that leads to a substantial return.
• Check to see if your contractor holds an AZ Certified Landscape Professional (ACLP) designation. ACLP contractors are experienced professionals who have passed an extensive examination covering all aspects of landscaping.
• Ask for proof of insurance. A reputable landscape contractor will carry liability and worker's compensation insurance coverage. Many homeowners have paid large amounts of money for damages caused by uninsured individuals claiming to be landscape maintenance experts. The property owner could be held responsible for damages and injuries that occur as a result.
• Check for necessary licenses. The Registrar of Contractors may require a license before any work can be performed.

These are the most common types of lawns:

• sod
• conventional seeding

Each method can be equally successful; the biggest difference in the methods is the time it takes to establish the lawn

Sod

Sod is commonly known as 'instant yard'.

1. Sod may be installed year round with proper soil preparation, grading, weed control and installation techniques.
2. Establishment is a process of 60-90 days when sodding.
3. The sod will begin to 'root' into the ground in just a few days after it is installed.
4. However, it will take 6-8 weeks before the lawn is considered established.

Watering

1. Sod should be watered 2-3 times per day for the first 2 weeks. The sod has no roots in the soil and the thin layer of grass and soil dries out quickly. Allowing the sod to go through brief periods of dry conditions will encourage rooting. The native soils below the canopy of the sod tend to hold moisture and the new sod will put out roots into the soft, moist soil. But, if the grass dries out too quickly, or too completely, it will not be able to put out roots. Keep sod moist, but not standing in water.

Weed Control

1. In a newly sodded yard, weed control is possible at the time of installation or soon after, depending on the time of year and type of grass. Weed control should be part of the annual schedule of lawn maintenance practices. Application of appropriate pre-emergent herbicides can keep a lawn weed-free, healthy and vigorously growing.

Fertilization

1. Accomplished this procedure at the time of sodding.
2. Follow-up fertilization should be performed 8-10 weeks after sod installation.
3. Use a fertilizer that is labeled for your variety of grass and no others.
4. Avoid spilling fertilizer on the lawn. An extremely heavy fertilizer application can kill a newly sodded lawn. Follow label directions when applying fertilizers.
5. Avoid fertilizing when the grass is damp. Fertilizer will stick to damp plants and burn the foliage.
6. Water-in the fertilizer after it is applied to avoid burning the lawn.

Mowing

1. A sodded lawn should be mowed as soon as roots are firmly attached to the ground and foliage reaches a height 1 1/2 times the installed height of the sod. Mowing frequency should be between every 7-10 days after the first mowing and should continue through the growing season.
2. New sod that has been frequently watered may be too wet to mow.
3. Let the sod dry out for 1 full day prior to mowing the first time.

Conventional Seeding

This process is the broadcasting seed and fertilizer onto the prepared soil, firming the seed into the soil and covering the seeded area with straw mulch. The seed may be spread across the ground with a spreader or vertical seeded with special seeding equipment.

Watering

1. The newly planted area should be watered routinely until the seedlings are well rooted (about 6 weeks).
2. During the first 4 weeks, watering should be frequent with a shorter duration. The soil should be kept moist.
3. After the first 4 weeks, the frequency of watering should decrease (to about every 3rd day), but the duration of each watering should increase.
4. If the weather is extremely warm, the watering should be more frequent.
5. This less frequent/longer duration watering will help to establish a good root system for your lawn.

Mowing

1. In order to reduce competition between weeds and the new grass, mowing of weeds is essential.
2. If weeds are fast growing, the mowing should be frequent.
3. If the weeds are kept under control, the seedlings will take over and the lawn will be established more quickly.
4. On a newly seeded lawn, it is very helpful to mow as often as every 5-7 days. After the lawn is established, the lawn should be mowed between every 7-10 days.

Have you considered adding trees to your landscaping? Of course they can be a beautiful focal point but they can add great benefits as well. Trees can help improve the quality of your lawn and other surrounding plants with its shade by keeping the soil cool. This helps reduce the watering needs of your grass. Another benefit often overlooked is making the air we breathe cleaner.

Container trees

These trees take special care and can be a great addition to any landscape.

• These trees are grown in a plastic pot within a soil mix, prepared by the plant grower.
• This soil is very porous and water will pass through it quickly.
• Since a newly installed tree has no roots in the native soil around it, the roots can dry out quickly. Frequent watering of container trees is mandatory for quick establishment.
• If you have very large container trees, 15 gallon size or above, it will be necessary to hand water the root ball of the plant with a hose, 2 times per day, for the first 2 – 3 weeks after planting. This can be done any time of the day, as long as the watering is done 4 hours apart.

Stakes – Trees over 4' tall require staking upon planting. Keep a check on the wires that connect the trees to the stake. They should be loose around the trunk of the tree to allow for growth. They should remain in place for one full growing season and then be removed.

Mulch – Container trees require mulch to be placed on the root ball. A 3"- 4" layer of pine straw should be kept around the base of the tree. It should be a minimum of 3' in diameter or twice the size of the root ball. This large circle of mulch will help preserve moisture, deter weed growth and help to prevent damage to the tree trunk from lawn care equipment. Replenish mulch 1 – 2 times per year.

Fertilization – Newly planted trees will benefit from being fertilized with tree spikes. Use 1 spike per inch of trunk caliper and drive the spikes into the ground, spacing them equally around the drip-line of the tree. 16-8-8 analysis spikes should be used for deciduous trees, while 16-4-4 analysis spikes should be used for evergreen trees. Fertilization of trees with spikes should be done once per year.

On established trees, fertilization should be accomplished two times per year with a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10. 1 closed handful per inch of caliper, evenly spread to the outside of the root ball. Do not place a handful or pile of fertilizer in one spot on the top of the root ball. Avoid letting fertilizer touch the foliage of all container plants, especially during the times the plants are wet. It will burn the foliage and many injure the tree.

Pest Control – Only needed if a pest is found to cause significant damage to a plant. Monitor plants for obvious pests such as anthills in the root zone. Ants love the soft soil in the root zone of newly planted trees. Large ant hills can kill a young tree. Use an insecticide such as Amdro to control ant hills. Follow label directions when applying any pesticide. Check with your landscape maintenance expert if you are not sure about a pest problem on your trees.

Shrubs

Do your homework and double check to make sure the shrubs installed are hardy for our area. Shrubs are grown in containers or plastic pots with a special soil mix prepared by the grower. This soil is very porous and water will pass through it quickly. Since a newly installed shrub has no roots in the native soil around it, the roots can dry out quickly. Frequent watering of container shrubs is mandatory for quick establishment. If you have a sprinkler system in your yard, container shrubs will be adequately watered by your establishment watering program.

Caution: Poorly drained soils such as red clay can hold water for days at a time without drying out. Over watering can suffocate roots and kill plants. Be careful not to over water container shrubs. They require less water than your lawn and watering these two types of plants together should be avoided.

Fertilization – Shrubs are to be fertilized twice a year, March & August, with a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10. Mulch – A 3" to 4" layer of pine straw should be kept in the root zone of shrubs. This mulch helps to retain moisture during periods of drought. It prevents erosion, deters weed growth and looks nice. Pine straw should be replenished 1 to 2 times per year. This is a service that a landscape maintenance company can provide.

Pest Control – Necessary on container shrubs only if a pest problem is found to cause significant damage to a plant. Monitor shrubs for obvious pests such as ant hills in the root zone. Ants love the soft soil in the root zone of newly planted trees. Large ant hills can kill a young tree. Use an insecticide such as Amdro to control ant hills. Follow label directions when applying any pesticide. Check with your landscape maintenance provider if you are not sure about a pest problem.

Listed below are some of the most common drought tolerant plants that flourish in our Arizona heat.

1. Mexican Bird of Paradise

• Can be exposed to 8 hours or longer of direct sunlight
• Needs to be moderately watered
• Gives off moderate litter
• Attracts hummingbirds

1. Baja Fairy Duster

• Can be exposed to 8 hours or longer of direct sunlight
• Needs to be moderately watered
• Gives off moderate litter

1. Texas Sage

• Among the most heat tolerant plants
• Needs very little water
• Low litter
• Flowers after monsoon

1. Cape Honeysuckle

• Can be exposed to a mixture of full sun and shaded area
• Needs to be moderately watered
• Low litter

1. Totem Pole

• Among the most heat tolerant plants
• Needs very little water
• Low litter

1. Elephant's Food

• Can be exposed to a mixture of full sun and shaded area
• Needs light watering
• Low litter
• Effective security plant